Red Chili Mystix - Review
The Mystix is a high-end performance climbing shoe made for climbing on steep ground. For this shoe, Red Chili went back to the drawing board and built a totally new last. After two years of development, in close cooperation with their top athletes they came up with what they describe as the perfect shape, going for a narrower, downturned model.
Shape The Mystix has a narrow shape and a moderate downturn.
Rubber A thin 3.5mm layer of Vibram XS Grip. This rubber provides support on small edges while being flexible enough for sensitivity and smearing.
Tension system The Mystix has a slingshot rand which is the section of red and black rubber at the back. The two colors represent two different compounds of rubber, the red being hard, the black softer and stretchier.
Materials The toe area is made partially from leather so that this part adjusts even more to the individual toe shape. The foot stays cool thanks to a breathable tongue made from the fine, elastic knitted fabric.
Closing System Crossed velcro strap closure system that tightens the whole shoe in one motion
Size The available sizes on the EpicTV shop range from EU39 or UK 6 to EU 44.5 or UK 11
Price On the EpicTv Shop you'll find it at €118.90 which is discounted from €145
I've been wearing and loving the Red Chili Voltage Lace for a while now, but it is definitely aimed more at the sport climbing end of the climbing market. The Mystix is firmly a bouldering shoe designed mainly for indoor climbing, but well suited, in my opinion for outdoor climbing as well. There are some clever innovations in this shoe. The little cuts running through it allows more flexibility which means more sensitivity, especially when standing on volumes.
The Mystix has a narrow shape, you can see it really focuses on a point, and that point means it is incredibly precise. Your weight and power are aligned down to the toes so using and moving off small holds is a breeze.
As for the heel, when that red rubber is tensioned across the heel it has the effect of creating strength and stability which will help you with heel hooks. I think it works. Having that narrow mold means there is a danger that the shoe will feel a bit baggy around the heel however I had no issues here, it felt solid and secure.
I think this shoe is all about the little details that make it special. There is microfibre throughout to improve comfort and leather under the big toe that allows it to sink in and mold to the material. This makes the shoe comfortable but also improves fit and therefore performance.
Let's talk about how the shoe feels. This shoe is narrow. So if you have very wide feet this might not be for you. The first time I put it on I really noticed that streamline feel all the way down to my toes. It felt long on my foot and changed my feet into a precise rubber weapon. But the downside of that feeling is that a lot of pressure comes down to my big toe. This is only really noticeable when standing on really small edges or twisting the foot into a pocket. For me, it moves a little bit towards the painful end of the spectrum. I ordered the Mystix in size UK8, EU42, but in hindsight, I should have gone for a UK 8.5, EU 42.5 which is closer to my street size.
Red Chili actually recommends downsizing by -1 from your street shoe. I think that might be a bit painful for many people. It’s hard to talk about sizing as everyone’s feet are different.
Is the Mystix adaptable to other climbing disciplines? The Mystix is meant to be a bouldering shoe, and bouldering it's really where this excels. The split on the sole means it’s flexible and the whole shoe feels sensitive and precise.
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To conclude... I like this shoe because it just does what it sets out to do. I really think Red Chili has stepped up the design and manufacture of their shoes. I try to really put test shoes through their paces and there is no noticeable damage or wear and tear on the shoe. It’s not perfect for everyone, but it’s a very good option if you want a high-end bouldering shoe. Red Chili has always been comfortable, and now they have the tech, and quality to back it up.
Check out the video to see if its the right shoe for you!
By Matt Groom